Need help recommendations - 2015 Ford Focus SE hesitating

[KAS]

Hello, I changed the cannister purge valve. It did not have the exact clip on with the green clips. I was told it did not matter. I changed a 50 amp fuse. I cleaned the MF sensor and I replaced the "Air Tube". The Air Tube strap was broken. I thought it was an issue of the air not getting into the Air Filter Box.

My car will drive fine for 20 or 30 minutes. Then, it start hesitating.

I found a loose tubing hanging in the car. See the attached photo. I plug it where I thought it would go. It is snapped down to something on one end but not connected at the other end. Does anyone know if it should be connected to something?

Please see the attached photos of the Air Tube in the front of the car. And the tubing I found just hanging in the engine compartment.

Does anyone know what else I can do? Do you know a reputable repair shop in the Richmond, Texas or Katy, Texas area?

By the way, it seems if I shut off the AC, it seems to shorten the hesitation. I am in Houston area the temperature is nearly 100 degrees. Maybe I can drive it without the radio and AC on to see what happens.

Is it possible for someone to give me a picture of their 2015 Ford Focus engine area so I know what should be attached to one end of the tubing. Please see the pictures attached.

 

[Handy Andy]

The "air tube" is the one that is on the transmission / differential housing - that is an air-breather - the 1 photo that is the "snorkel" that is where the air inlet is - it's a little restriction to allow that MAF sensor on the main intake snorkel hose from the air box (filter) to the throttle body - take in the air in the "chamber" at a given rate that the PCM is calibrated to "see".

To know how this works is to look up Plenum - the tuning that they did to make the air box and the piping a given size and flow rate - shows how much the intake plume and the chamber design adds to the motors' miracle that it even runs. And even provide the power it does in torque at low RPM (1K to 2K RPM range)

So that Air breather hose should have a second piece that routes to the airbox - this keeps water and debris from getting sucked into the shifter solenoid and controller that is housed in the bell housing - that harness right next to it is the tell-tale for the reason.

Not sure how you got that shot, so if you can guide me to find the way you took the shots, then I'd be more than happy to help you along. I don't have a '15 to work alongside you but I'll try my best with what I can do.

 

[KAS]

Thank you for your help Andy. Very Very Very….I appreciate you helping me. I attach a video here?

 

[KAS]

Sorry Andy I don’t know how to upload a video to this forum. I will stop by a used car parts place to see if I look under the hood for the part.

 

[Handy Andy]

Got more info - this may or may not help (or like - depends)

The hesitation is from several sources, one main one being

It drives ok until it been run for about 20 mins - look at your Thermostat gauge - should be normal range

There's the problem - the last "stage" of warm-up and now the "hesitation" you may also hear a rattle or clicking sound.

Do you have the "Sport" PRNDS transmission or the PRNDL?

PRNDL - look on the shifter for a button - that runs on the "hill assist - Decelerate" light.

Run it in this mode - you'll see the tach spin up and the transmission seems to drive like it was when it was "warming up" in the first 20 minutes or so - hesitation would not be as noticeable. - just in stop start traffic that rattle may still occur but the drive-off seems smoother.

IF you get that kind of result - then the news is not good - this is a transmission problem with both the shift-ability the TCM does and the transmission itself having not a failure per-se - but a wear indication and the rattle and looseness of shifting that is occurring is due to this wear.

It's from the ECO-mode the thing has built in - if there was a way to turn it off I'd post it and be doing it myself - so right as of now the ECO mode places the transmission in a hard shift up and to decelerate - the tranny pump shuts down and the engine brake is a lot less than by having that little hill-assist button on to help slow down the car by using the engine to help (engine brake)

So, there are some possible solutions - rebuild the TCM solenoid clutch pack system, and or change the transmission oil and filter to improve the shifting closer to OEM. The fluid needs inspection and it may be worn out so it needs changing - if you have never done the fluid change there Ya' go - it OEM and it's reached the end of it's useful service life.

Both options are not cheap.

The hose? Doesn't go to the airbox, it rises up to be held in a clippy from a hose it clips with that goes to the Brake booster

 

[KAS]

Got more info - this may or may not help (or like - depends)

The hesitation is from several sources, one main one being

It drives ok until it been run for about 20 mins - look at your Thermostat gauge - should be normal range

There's the problem - the last "stage" of warm-up and now the "hesitation" you may also hear a rattle or clicking sound.

Do you have the "Sport" PRNDS transmission or the PRNDL?

PRNDL - look on the shifter for a button - that runs on the "hill assist - Decelerate" light.

Run it in this mode - you'll see the tach spin up and the transmission seems to drive like it was when it was "warming up" in the first 20 minutes or so - hesitation would not be as noticeable. - just in stop start traffic that rattle may still occur but the drive-off seems smoother.

IF you get that kind of result - then the news is not good - this is a transmission problem with both the shift-ability the TCM does and the transmission itself having not a failure per-se - but a wear indication and the rattle and looseness of shifting that is occurring is due to this wear.

It's from the ECO-mode the thing has built in - if there was a way to turn it off I'd post it and be doing it myself - so right as of now the ECO mode places the transmission in a hard shift up and to decelerate - the tranny pump shuts down and the engine brake is a lot less than by having that little hill-assist button on to help slow down the car by using the engine to help (engine brake)

So, there are some possible solutions - rebuild the TCM solenoid clutch pack system, and or change the transmission oil and filter to improve the shifting closer to OEM. The fluid needs inspection and it may be worn out so it needs changing - if you have never done the fluid change there Ya' go - it OEM and it's reached the end of it's useful service life.

Both options are not cheap.

The hose? Doesn't go to the airbox, it rises up to be held in a clippy from a hose it clips with that goes to the Brake booster

 

[KAS]

Hello Andy,

You are very smart person Handy Andy. Maybe I should call you Bruce Wayne (Batman).

I was just thinking it had to do something with brakes. Since there was fluid on the tube. I will stop by the auto parts store tomorrow or go to the dealership if they don’t have it.

I discovered today when I was driving on 1/4 tank of gas. It did not hesitate. Later I filled my tank and the hesitation began. I will look at those recalls to see if they are in still in affect for the tank problems.

Thank you so much for your help.

Kevin

 

[Handy Andy]

That hesitation? There are tons of possibilities to discuss but that does nothing to help you fix the problem for each one's possible solution takes time and resources and may NOT fix the problem - as a process of step-by-step elimination.

So, as I drive the Focus I have for deliveries, I too, come across that "hesitation" and stumble effect, I just hit that shifter button that lights the Car on the Downhill slope (Downshift/Decelerate) icon and although not the most effective for gas MPG, this makes the trip smoother and I don't wind up with a mess to sort out for deliveries . This seems to have an effect for as long as you drive this way for the time the engine is run - in this mode for the duration of that time the engine runs - the moment you turn off the key the thing resets and can put you in a stumble mode again, just hit the button and let the engine rev and drive as if a normal automatic without that lock up torque converter. It's in remembering to do it as a force of habit - and also to turn it off for the upper speed range when you're above 35MPH the auto will engage the torque lock up and the button icon is off.

In discussions with others (friends and those whom are in the realm of mechanics) have also brought up issues around the shift points and if the correct up shift sequence is even being followed unless you can use the button to let the tranny pump and oil - achieve a pressure or agitation that can let the fluid and whatever viscosity it may have at those temperatures - absorb vibrations from the clutch / solenoid chatter - and allow such a unique transmission to shift up by itself than to be forced upwards by the ECO-mode TCM forcing it to do so. Then too, the transmission being left to shift more on its own seems to help even with reducing driver fatigue from all that excessive bump and jerk caused by such aggressive shifting - you can relax a little more without getting tense to prevent or reduce the effort to "correct" the jump it may cause from the torque and speed changes the ECO mode attempts to get more out of something when it really does not have to be so aggressive at it. Takeoffs from stop lights is a good example - the torque-squeal or squawk from the wheels in ECO mode versus the gum-shoe effect that Hill-Assist engine braking does in drivability in winter months - not only save the tires but also helps keep you in control - used along with ABS can make an effective pair in hazardous conditions.

Other drivers can also see and hear those effects - so the less noise and stumble blunders you make, allows the many drivers around you, to be less likely to show aggressive behavior - there's a sense of safety in packs.

It's in the "forcing" does the wear issues accelerate.

To help, some other "tips" to try...

Switch grades of gas to higher octane blends - not cheap.
Change plugs and gap to correct spark gap - cheap insurance if it's never been done.
Locate and clean any type of fixed terminal connection (grounding points and exposed terminals) to decrease resistance path back to the battery. - solder those lugs you find at ground points as you can.
If possible remove and clean air cleaner - and sensors MAF/MAP on a regular basis. (Oil changes are a good reminder)
Review grades of oil - may need to switch to higher viscosity (5w20? Try 5w30 in summer) or blend thereof
Clean and clear out debris in radiator on a regular basis - the dirt debris and lint balls - get trapped in the fins of the radiator so flushing it out with a good strong stream while the AC unit is on, and engine is idling - helps rinse out the fins for unobstructed airflow - having the AC on also tells the system to turn on the fan - pulling air and water thru to help dislodge that stuff - anything helps.
Also, if your AC fan does not come on even when the engine is warmed up - is a sign that the refrigerant in it maybe gone and the compressor is running with no oil or means of lubrication in it's system - damage can and will occur - so if you don't hear the fan come on with AC on, then get it serviced quickly - AC pumps themselves are VERY expensive.

This list is incomplete and will be supplemented as necessary...

 

[KAS]

That hesitation? There are tons of possibilities to discuss but that does nothing to help you fix the problem for each one's possible solution takes time and resources and may NOT fix the problem - as a process of step-by-step elimination.

So, as I drive the Focus I have for deliveries, I too, come across that "hesitation" and stumble effect, I just hit that shifter button that lights the Car on the Downhill slope (Downshift/Decelerate) icon and although not the most effective for gas MPG, this makes the trip smoother and I don't wind up with a mess to sort out for deliveries . This seems to have an effect for as long as you drive this way for the time the engine is run - in this mode for the duration of that time the engine runs - the moment you turn off the key the thing resets and can put you in a stumble mode again, just hit the button and let the engine rev and drive as if a normal automatic without that lock up torque converter. It's in remembering to do it as a force of habit - and also to turn it off for the upper speed range when you're above 35MPH the auto will engage the torque lock up and the button icon is off.

In discussions with others (friends and those whom are in the realm of mechanics) have also brought up issues around the shift points and if the correct up shift sequence is even being followed unless you can use the button to let the tranny pump and oil - achieve a pressure or agitation that can let the fluid and whatever viscosity it may have at those temperatures - absorb vibrations from the clutch / solenoid chatter - and allow such a unique transmission to shift up by itself than to be forced upwards by the ECO-mode TCM forcing it to do so. Then too, the transmission being left to shift more on its own seems to help even with reducing driver fatigue from all that excessive bump and jerk caused by such aggressive shifting - you can relax a little more without getting tense to prevent or reduce the effort to "correct" the jump it may cause from the torque and speed changes the ECO mode attempts to get more out of something when it really does not have to be so aggressive at it. Takeoffs from stop lights is a good example - the torque-squeal or squawk from the wheels in ECO mode versus the gum-shoe effect that Hill-Assist engine braking does in drivability in winter months - not only save the tires but also helps keep you in control - used along with ABS can make an effective pair in hazardous conditions.

Other drivers can also see and hear those effects - so the less noise and stumble blunders you make, allows the many drivers around you, to be less likely to show aggressive behavior - there's a sense of safety in packs.

It's in the "forcing" does the wear issues accelerate.

To help, some other "tips" to try...

Switch grades of gas to higher octane blends - not cheap.
Change plugs and gap to correct spark gap - cheap insurance if it's never been done.
Locate and clean any type of fixed terminal connection (grounding points and exposed terminals) to decrease resistance path back to the battery. - solder those lugs you find at ground points as you can.
If possible remove and clean air cleaner - and sensors MAF/MAP on a regular basis. (Oil changes are a good reminder)
Review grades of oil - may need to switch to higher viscosity (5w20? Try 5w30 in summer) or blend thereof
Clean and clear out debris in radiator on a regular basis - the dirt debris and lint balls - get trapped in the fins of the radiator so flushing it out with a good strong stream while the AC unit is on, and engine is idling - helps rinse out the fins for unobstructed airflow - having the AC on also tells the system to turn on the fan - pulling air and water thru to help dislodge that stuff - anything helps.
Also, if your AC fan does not come on even when the engine is warmed up - is a sign that the refrigerant in it maybe gone and the compressor is running with no oil or means of lubrication in it's system - damage can and will occur - so if you don't hear the fan come on with AC on, then get it serviced quickly - AC pumps themselves are VERY expensive.

This list is incomplete and will be supplemented as necessary...

Thank you Handy Andy!!!